Handmade goods are expensive. There’s not a lot a maker can do to make their work or art cheaper, especially if they value their work and want to respect other maker’s time and efforts. Tools, machinery, consumables such as abrasives, adhesives, safety equipment, steel, insurance, training, travel, experience and knowledge. It all adds up. We can’t compete with factories or even production line blacksmiths, but each piece has received our full attention, interest, passion and care.

Carbon steel is an iron and carbon alloy that sometimes contains small amounts of other elements such as manganese, vanadium, chromium, tungsten. The term covers a broad family of steels and can also be a cover term for metals that are technically tool steels. The main piece of information to remember is that carbon steel is not rust or stain resistant and needs care.

I work with carbon steel for a variety of reasons, however the key reason is that I prefer to forge my blades and it is more enjoyable. Carbon steels, especially premium types such as Japanese White Paper and Blue Paper steels, are known for superior edge retention, fineness of edge and ease of sharpening (when compared to martensitic stainless steels.

As both carbon steels and cladding alloys are susceptible to rust and staining, your knife will require simple but consistent care. Wiping it during use, immediate washing and drying, and periodic coatings with food safe oils such as camellia oil will preserve both the function and aesthetic of your knife for far longer. Patina’s and other darkening of surfaces can be expected over time, and are natural as the steel is exposed to oxygen and foods. Citrus fruits, onion, hot cooked meats and other acidic foods will hasten this discolouration. Dishwashing will both rust the blade and destroy your handle so please take the time to hand wash. Using plastic or wooden catting boards are recommended to prolong edge retention, and avoid cutting bones or hard vegetables such as watermelon and pumpkin unless the blade is specifically designed for such use. Edge steel is heat treated to be very hard but some brittleness can be expected, so hard impact or twisting/manipulation of a knife when stuck in materials listed above will result in fracture. It is expected that a specialist knife is used the way it was intended and no responsibility is taken for misuse or accidents.

Each of my knives is based on a specific Japanese kitchen knife. A quick google will lead you down a rabbit hole, however a simple guide of blades I make is as follows:

• Gyuto: “beef sword” 180-270mm, versatile Japanese alternative to Western chef knives such as those emanating from historical knife making regions in Germany or France. A fairly contemporary design when compared to older, more traditional styles.

• Santoku: “Three Virtues” 150-180mm. All purpose, sheep’s-foot style tip, precise and used to process both proteins and vegetable. More popular than Gyuto in Japanese home kitchens.

• Petty: 100mm all the way up to 210mm, but generally in the 150mm general size range. Often a companion knife for a gyuto or other large chef knife. Used for finer tasks or detail work and frequently shaped like gyuto or santoku although other patterns may be seen.

• Nakiri: 120mm up to 210mm, generally within 165mm to 180mm. Vegetable knife with a straight edge and thin geometry capable of slicing and precision work. Blunt, straight tip and looks like a cleaver but is NOT used as a cleaver.

• Sujihiki aka Sujihike: Generally 240mm to 300mm blade, other sizes can occur. Long, narrow meat slicer that typically acts like a western carving knife and often mistaken for a sashimi knife (Yanigiba) as it shares a similar profile and size; however, it is double bevelled compared to the Yanigiba’s single bevel.

Yes, but only with water stones and after practicing on cheap knives until you are confident in your ability to not slip and scratch the blade. Water stone sharpening is a very rewarding and enjoyable technique but can take time to become proficient.

A reputable knife sharpener can be a good option, however sometimes they can ruin blades through overheating or mishandling.

Mechanical pull-through sharpeners should be avoiding like the plague.

Thinning or other advanced modifications should only be undertaken by those who are very confident in their abilities and are aware of the extreme aesthetic changes that will occur on etched or Damascus blades.

Stainless steel resists rust and staining but still requires the same level of care as a carbon steel blade. Premium stainless steels are often far more demanding during production and command higher prices.